28 Sep 2014 | Reviewed by ASIF ANWAR ALIG
Delhi by Heart
– Impressions of a Pakistani Traveller, Raza Rumi, HarperCollins
Publishers India, Noida- 201301, 2013, 322pp, 300, Soft (Paperback)
Yet another
book by a foreign author opens up new leaflets of Indian history in Delhi’s
context. Delhi is not merely an urban establishment like its rest South Asian
counterparts. It had had many encounters with history which brought zenith of
civilizations and terse gory invasions since centuries. Delhi by Heart –
Impressions of a Pakistani Traveller by a Pakistani diplomat cum author, Raza
Rumi is a splendid narration of juxtapositions Delhi encountered since
centuries until attaining modern identity of New Delhi – a metropolitan city
with a global perspective.
Impressions are
first-hand observations which inspire opinions for good or bad imprints. Raza
portrays them on Delhi from culture to sense of belongingness in his company of
commoners, celebrated inhabitants, academicians, bureaucrats and of course
friends whom he meets succinctly and in the rendezvous whenever visited the
city as an explorer for the subject of this book.
Resident of
historic city of Lahore, Raza finds in Delhi similar cultural assimilation – a
traditional ingenuity – Delhi of today offers that home feeling. This book
expresses many such facets of Delhi from history of constant settling and
unsettling to enriched research on Sufism. Erstwhile Mughal rules, ecstatic
cultures and literary contributions of scholars from Mughal regime till date
have been summed up meticulously. Deep rooted research on such issues
transforms it into historical realm instead of traveller’s impression.
“The legendary
twenty-two Sufis sleeping its urban mass turned the city and its environs into
an unmatched place of reverence. Termed as ‘Little Mecca’ by medieval and
colonial tazkiras of the subcontinent, Delhi’s primacy as the Sufi capital was
unchallenged except by Ajmer, cited as ‘Little Medina’ by the biographers of
Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti,” (Delhi by Heart – Impressions of a Pakistani
Traveller).
Consistent
description of Sufism professes unique Delhi unlike its modern identity of a
city serving as capital of biggest democracy in the world which new generations
see. One on ones’ of this author with literati and common men are narrated as
much as history gets described through the descriptions to impressions of a
foreigner. Historic explanations showcase merit of a foreign author “knowing
too much about a city in another country”.
Reading this
book creates nostalgia that even residents feel they were not aware of many
facets of Delhi – a modern city. It sums up chronological description of Sufism
in Indian subcontinent and is indeed a reference on Sufism instead of a
travelogue which one opines in the first impression for that purpose.
History
describes rulers of Delhi spanning to several centuries to the gory end of
United India Kingship under the Mughals to British colonisation of undivided
India. This book presents it lucidly. Grandeur and degeneration of Mughals are
articulately defined as a historical narration instead of traveller’s
histrionics. Well-researched book narrates sheer hypocrisies, demeaned
identities, cultural destructions and bloodbaths in the Indian subcontinent
which literally changed its course through liquidating towering civilizations.
Its narration
has wealth of impartial commentary on Indian literary circle whom Raza met and
converse with during his India visits. He does justice in explaining
assessments on Delhi’s arts, religious harmony from past to present and
architectural historiography of an ancient city. Justice is also done through
propagating sense of brotherhood in Delhi that according to many is a
remarkable place on earth. This book vividly explains undivided India invasions
and repeated lootings which tarnished solemnity of Delhi’s civilizations.
Raza espouses
arrival of a new culture which inculcates in Delhi and remains a guiding force
for the new generation. He observes that during impromptu meetings with
youngsters in this city especially during eating-outs or simple chats he could
understand the inherent development of Delhi. His interactions with academia in
the city’s prominent universities, Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU) and Jamia
Millia Islamia (JMI), are deep expressions of kinship – a matured outlook of a
new generation Pakistani thinker. His demeanours are beyond boundaries and
observations don’t carry any prank.
“I wonder about
the signages on modern boards – Kidwai Nagar, Hazrat Nizamuddin, Jain Mandir,
Okhla, Jamia, Saket, etc. Delhi is a multi-petalled lotus like the Bahai’
Temple and should be nurtured. This city belongs to all South Asians; those who
are in a perpetual state of self-hatred may leave it alone.” (Delhi by Heart –
Impressions of a Pakistani Traveller)
Vivid
description of genocides, bloodbaths and pogroms aside, prudent impressions of
a frequent Delhi traveller advocate fulfilling of dreams by new generation who
have a cohesive future. Its replica is seen in Delhi in its diversity.
This
post-partition born Pakistani traveller doesn’t see in this city any sense of “your
Hindu India and our Muslim Pakistan.” This book is a welcome addition to the
wide range of literature on Delhi. It has new perspectives in Delhi’s
civilization as nurtured from the golden history.
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