Reviewed by ASIF ANWAR ALIG
Across the Chicken Neck: Travels in Northeast India, by Nandita Haksar,
Rainlight by Rupa Publications India Pvt., Ltd., New Delhi -110002, Year2013,
272pp, Indian Rupees 495, Hard.

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inherent reasons—my nearness to northeastern India in the plains nearby Queen
of hills Darjeeling and own exploration of hilly northeastern India augured me
to read Across the Chicken Neck: Travels in Northeast India by Nandita
Haksar. Summary of author’s long journey taken with husband Sebastian Hongray to
explore India’s extreme northeast makes this book a simmering narration. Its tone
turns metamorphose it into a reference work on region’s history and geography besides
it being a travelogue.


On
occasions this travelogue becomes history of northeastern India. Descriptions on
Kamrup rulers, Mughal army invasions to local myths on magic and mystics appeal
to bring nostalgia. Author’s observations on Brahmaputra protecting Majuli
Island to caste-based intolerance to Mishing Tribal sufferings not allowed to satras
(monasteries) under caste discriminations are several issues of human interest that
hadn’t been highlighted yet.

Broadening
travelogue arena this book explains facts that pertain to region’s inhabitants.
It highlights glories with vivid description of the places where author visited—even
minutest of things which mattered have been included. The sufferings of local commoners
shook author’s attention. Information on religious discriminations in Meghalaya
forcing many Garo members to embrace Christianity due to Hindu Rabha caste
discriminations have also been reviewed.

Shedding
light on the social, economic, cultural and traditional evolutions, it is a firsthand
recount. With simplistic beginning, it gradually turns in-depth to assess northeastern
India and describes many core issues. Author’s narrative simplicity seeks
reader attention in her candors to bring facts such as raising questions about
the area rather than being a concise observation.
She
toured Arunachal Pradesh for the first time in 1974 as a journalist. Her bond strengthened
further upon marrying a Sebastian Naga from the northeast region. Raising
serious questions on this part of India as core issues the author proclaims
that the region has literally been geographically removed from the mainland to keep
it aloof psychologically and culturally.

Military
vulnerabilities in northeastern India to suspicions about locals for nationhood
spirit post-1962 Indo-Chinese war are the fizzy dubiousness by subsequent
governments. She can’t understand why even after half a century of India’s
freedom from the British northeastern region encounters ignominious treatment. Racial
discriminations against northeasterners in several parts of India is still horrendous.
Occasional sporadic brutal murders or harassments of youths from the region are
commonplace.

A groundbreaking
book on this region Across the Chicken Neck: Travels in Northeast India
required thorough editing. Firsthand encounters into the region for
three-and-a-half months’ travel to the region to some portions of Nepal and Myanmar
offer ample insights. Readers know Hornbill Festival at Nagaland where Ao Naga
men beat log drums and are joined by the Khasis, Kacharis and non-tribal
Meiteis amongst others.
This
book distinguishes from rest travelogues. Author points out smiles on the northeasterner
faces as if weapon of defense to disguise anger, disappointment and
frustration. Excellent portrayal of northeastern Indian state of mind to state
of living the book is a juxtaposition of cultural and traditional realities. Arunachal
Mishmis threatening to secede to China for once upon not received salt and other
descriptions about the region like its ancient ties with Tibet, China, Myanmar
and Bangladesh and the beautiful Lake Sally linking the area with Thailand to Tai
Phakey community in modern day Assam are appealing notes.
This review article was first published in www.ceylontoday.lk in its October 23, 2016 edition. http://epaper.ceylontoday.lk/
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